hey phrizz (or anyone with 78/79 non-ap2.5)

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2012-02-08 at 11:59PM UTC #6016
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QuickMythril

if you can post a video showing the abgx360 scan of the disc with blank ap2.5 sectors and then booting on the 78/79 drive, it would be a great support to the idea that some of these drives do not perform the check for some reason. i had someone ask me to make a video but i don’t have a hitachi, and figured you might still have that test disc on hand.

2012-02-12 at 02:37PM UTC #6046
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phrizz

Interesting idea Quick, I don’t have a PVR on my computer, but I can do screen shots (like everyone else can) using the Prnt Scrn button on the keyboard.

I could also borrow my sisters little Samsung handicam (that a word? lol) to show I’m not swapping in my original AC:B all tricky-like. That would give me a neat little project for the day, come to think of it =)

Any suggestions or specifics that you would like to see Quick? I’m not sure how to prove to others my drive is indeed a Hitachi aside from re-connecting it to the computer and dumping a log of JF, but I do still have my NAND dumps and tools from when I RGH’d and did some modifying.

In the meantime, I’ll try to swing by my sisters to pick up her camera. My digicam does video but it’s way too grainy, it was meant for super close-up macro shots.

(for those who haven’t followed the subject I am referring to above, the RGH on my box was performed AFTER I had ran my AC:B tests with no AP25 / old AP25 and determined my drive doesn’t support AP25/topology so it’s not the RGH allowing me to play, Quick knows this but many of you may not)

2012-02-12 at 04:41PM UTC #6050
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phrizz

I actually still have my AC:B disc that has no AP25 at all, the one that has outdated AP25, and my NFS:HP that I patched with outdated AC:B data (I consider that “the mother of all AP25 failure test disc” lol)

I’m a bit of a pack-rat, I don’t like throwing stuff away; never know when you might need it ;)

My sister was up all night with my sick 2-year-old niece so they’re still asleep but I should be able to snag her camcorder sometime today. I still need to figure out a simple & quick way to disable the RGH and go back to stock NAND & dash in order to prove the concept though because the FreeBoot dash doesn’t perform any AP25 checks. I would consider showing that I can boot these essentially non-compliant AP25 backups as my console is now would be deceiving even though you know I ran these tests weeks prior to performing the RGH with success. Lemme know what ya think, I need to put in a new hard drive and move some stuff around so I’ll be offline for a little while.

2012-02-12 at 09:51PM UTC #6054
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QuickMythril

if you put your stock nand file on a usb drive as updflash.bin then boot with the eject button, it should auto flash you back to stock. then power off (and pull the cable out) when it says and i think if you just disconnect the ground wire to the coolrunner, it will disable the chip. just make sure the red light is off. then you can boot stock again. only thing is you’d need to hook up the nand-x to flash the hacked dash again afterwards. awesome tutorial by the way. i was talking to someone and they seemed to imply that using old LT the way we are trying as 3 min protection won’t work. i have a benq that is already flagged so i will just try and see if i flash back and pop in a blank ap disc. will post back later. thanks

2012-02-13 at 12:25AM UTC #6057
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phrizz

Damn, the flashing back to my stock NAND sounds easy enough but disabling the CoolRunner and reflashing to the hacked dash will be a bit more extensive just to show video proof of something I have already done. The only real reason I’m wavering on it is because I’ve currently got a PS3 sitting on top of my 360, then two external hard drives and my BenQ ripping drive atop the PS3 so my Xbox is currently buried at the bottom.

If it were something quick and easy like flashing my original NAND back and simply disabling the CoolRunner as opposed to doing that along with reconnecting the NANDx to go back to my hacked dash, I would be more motivated to do it because then while I had the system apart again I would connect a kill switch to the ground or 3.3v on the CoolRunner to make it simple to flash back and forth between stock and hacked NAND / Dash. Requiring the NANDx every time puts a significant kink in that plan. I may have to put it on the to-do list for the near future rather than something that should do ASAP, unfortunately, because I would love to provide absolute proof to some of the “higher-ups” that not all 78/79′s perform AP25 or topology checks.

Your statement about the old Lt+ not working as protection is interesting…if whomever you were speaking to were implying that using old Lt+ wouldn’t work in regards to protection for tests of XGD2 AP25-active titles, then what was the protection there for in the first place?

I can understand it not working for XGD3′s since the older CFW doesn’t support XGD3 outright, but to think it wouldn’t work on the six XGD2 games with AP25 seems somewhat misleading (not by you, by them). When Lt+ v1.1 first came out, I thought the protection for bad AP25 sectors was one of the boasted features that it offered and many people here moaned and groaned about it not being in the newer custom firmware(s).

Perhaps it has something to do with the loosely labeled AP26 random challenge tables that were implemented..? I suppose it would highly depend on what dashboard you are on in order to determine whether or not your system was ever updated to include the random AP26 challenges but you would have to be on a pretty old dashboard…so I suppose I should add a disclaimer to the tutorial so I don’t get a harassed if something doesn’t work out perfectly. I would still recommend the downgrade for those worried about a flag and are testing XGD2 AP25-active titles to determine their drives AP25 capabilities, at least until you report back on whether or not you get the black screen protection on your BenQ or if you get an immediate “unrecognized disc” error or whatever error it is exactly.

What’s the deal with the inability to edit your own posts beyond about 10 minutes? Seems like the edit option is there right after you post, but then you refresh the page a couple times and it disappears, sort of a PITA and a waste of space to keep making new posts when you’re just trying to add/remove something from an existing post..oy…

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